The Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness in northern Minnesota is one of the most remote and pristine wilderness destinations in the lower 48 states. One million acres of boreal forest, 1,200 lakes, and 1,500 miles of canoe routes — all connected by portage trails measured in rods, all without motors, without roads, without cell service.
Paddling the Boundary Waters is a complete disconnection from the modern world. You'll camp on granite outcroppings above glassy water, fish for walleye and northern pike at sunset, and fall asleep to the cry of loons. Entry requires a permit and advance planning, but the wilderness you access is worth every bit of the logistics.
The Classic Entry
Moose Lake Chain
Permit required · Entry Point 25
The Moose Lake chain east of Ely is one of the most popular BWCA entry routes — and for good reason. A series of long, connected lakes with manageable portages leads deep into the wilderness. Paddle Moose Lake, cross into Newfound Lake, and continue to Ensign or Snowbank for overnight camping on flat granite ledges above the water.
Boundary Waters Trip Overview
- Duration: 5 days / 4 nights
- Base town: Ely, MN
- Entry permit: $16/person/day quota permit required May–September; reserve at recreation.gov starting in January
- Best months: June–September; August–September for fewer bugs
- Drive from Minneapolis: ~4.5 hours · Duluth: ~2 hours
Pre-Trip — Ely Outfitters
Ely is the outfitter capital of the Boundary Waters, with a dozen canoe outfitters offering everything from fully outfitted trips (they provide canoe, gear, food, and portage advice) to partial outfitting (just rent the canoe and get a map). Piragis Northwoods Company and Boundary Waters Outfitters are well-regarded. First-timers should consider a guided trip or at minimum a gear consultation.
Essential gear: a Kevlar canoe (lighter for portages), waterproof dry bags, a portage pack that doubles as a canoe seat, a water filter, and bear canisters (required in some zones). Ely outfitters know the current lake conditions and can advise on the best routes for your group's experience level.
Day 1 — Enter via Moose Lake
Launch from the Moose Lake entry point (Entry Point 25, off the Fernberg Road). Paddle the length of Moose Lake (~4 miles), portage into Newfound Lake, then continue to Ensign Lake for your first night. The portages on this route are relatively short (under 40 rods), making it a good introduction to portaging. Camp on a designated site — flat granite ledge, fire grate, pit toilet box.
Days 2–3 — Snowbank Lake & Into the Interior
Push deeper into the wilderness toward Snowbank Lake or loop south toward the Knife Lake chain. These mid-route days are the heart of the BWCA experience: long open-water paddles with only wind and loons for company, short portages through boreal forest, and fishing for walleye in the evening shallows. Build in a layover day to explore side bays, fish, or simply sit on a rock and do nothing.
Days 4–5 — Return & Ely
Reverse your route out, noting that the wind direction often reverses between morning and afternoon — paddle exposed crossings early. Back in Ely, clean up at your outfitter, return gear, and celebrate at Gino's East of Ely or the Ely Steakhouse — both solid northern Minnesota dining institutions after days in the backcountry.
